Sravana.us

We’ve been unplugged these last few days due to flaky data connectivity. I got tired of running after a signal and of failed uploads. I wasn’t tempted by the local internet cafes either. So I reverted back to my pen and notepad.

We took the time to immerse ourselves into the local life by walking around to explore the small local town, a day trip to the Neyyar Dam Sanctuary and its elephant rehabilitation center. Step out of the beaten tracks to discover and participate in the Durga temple rituals at dusk. Some things don’t change while others certainly have. For better or worse, I’m not sure.

What is sure is that Kerala (India?) has identified tourism has a major asset, and taken important steps towards making it even more important. Some parts of the coast resemble the Costa Brava in the crowd they cater for.

The population that flies to the main beach resorts must come by charters on package holidays. High heels, provocative dressing, (or worse, football shirts) drunk, loud and often gross, this kind of tourist pollutes all the sweet spots of the planet. Forget them. We moved on.

On the other hand, the rise of the indian middle class is visible as many more indian families enjoy the beauty of their country on holiday, and not only in expensive resorts, reserved only to the wealthy as it use to be before. The infra structures work. You can book in advance almost everything, mobile phones everywhere, laptops connected to the internets in small shops, or even in beach shaks. Many more shiny cars on the (still bumpy) roads, women drivers and police officers

Granted, this is Kerala, where the communist party has reigned for a long time (not sure now, but the DYFI seems eveywhere) and invested a lot in social services. Most people are litterate and there are 20+ daily newspapers. But even so.

Top knotch hightech hospitals have sprung up along the coast to welcome a new breed of tourism: medical tourism. Transplants, heart surgery, etc, at a fraction of the western cost.. and no waiting list. Similar to what you can find in Malaysia. Frightening.

Nevetheless, India’ soul remains. Get off the beaten tracks, sit down and watch life unfold in front of you. The warmth of that smile is priceless.

En fin de journée nous étions a la plage Mathias et David jouaient avec les vagues, Emma et moi jouions avec le sable, un Monsieur vient vers moi et me dit look ! Il y avait 5 dauphins . Nous les avons regardé passer avec beaucoup d’ exitation, et d’ admiration . Un cadeau de la nature..

A beach in India after sunset: all the kids are on their iPods, while all the parents are on their iPhones (a distanr reference to a Monty Python joke, remember anyone?)

Naaaah, only joking. But it applies to us as I write.

Cheers…

We are staying an extra day at Varkala and have decided to visit the Neyyar Dam Sanctuary as a day trip from here, saving us the hassle to move down to Trivandrum and find a hotel, etc. This way we can catch the coast train to Kollam from Varkala after tomorrow. We hope to find a houseboat and explore the backwaters slowly up to Kottayam. We’ll avoid the much sought after Kollam-Allepey trip as it’s crowded and long. We’ll favour more local means of travel such as ferry crossings which are less glamorous but more colourful. You also see a more diversified landscape. Breakfast is served. Must love you and leave you for now. PS: the Tumblr app fails at completion, with these weak data connections, so we are reverting to email for uploads.

Ir’s 16:30 and we haven’t seen the day go by. Granted, we did start late, but nevertheless, good moments do fly by.

I’m laying on my bed, facing the sea, listening to the crows fighting over a leftover and the sound of the waves relenlessly smashing on the rocks.

But was really makes it for me is to hear Mamalayam spoken again. I love the eay these people talk, move and interact. Slowly, past memories are resurfing, springing into light as bright as on tge day tgey were stored.

The sound of a builder resonates through the afternoon heat as he chops his stone block in rythm.

We haven’t done much except getting used the place, heat and food. We barely managed to get through our meal last night as we were all falling to sleep waiting for the dinner. Mathias and Emma have been very opened minded regarding food until Mathias bit into a chilli of his veg biriani…

Talking about food, it’s time to go and find something to bite.

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