Sravana.us

We were early birds this morning: 05:00am. Just in the twilight between night and day, sleep and wake.

Alone with the full moon, save the occasional passer by striding to his work, the birds were the only ones aware of our presence, singing away to daybreak. Peaceful.

Parade Ground was now empty and cleaned up after yesterday’s celebrations which saw singers, an elephant parade, dancers and people rejoicing and dancing everywhere to the drum beats and trumpets worthy of a tropical carnaval.

Probably the reason why it was a dry day (no alcohol).

The reason of our early rise is that Kochi’s airport is 50km away, and we are located in Fort Cochin, connected to the mainland only by the south of the island which can get very busy.

A taxi picked us up on Parade Ground and drove us at a scaring speed through the awakening city. Even at these early hours, and speed, it took us close to an hour.

The trip was astonishing. After the sleepy lanes of Fort Kochi lined with old banyan trees, we hit the mainland and its industrialisation. Roads grew wider and busier amd noisier.

Soon giant billboards for western clothing and accessories, cell phone operators, european cars, luxury products, started to appear. All in English.

We whooshed pass gigantic construction sites for shopping malls and business centers, spread out all the way from the outskirts of Ernakulam up to the airport. Dazzling.

Now, the disparity between social layers feels stronger than ever. Cultures clash. While you may relate to the ads, the settings feel all wrong. Who reads them? Who are they targeted at? This is Ernakulam, not Delhi, Mumbai or Chennai…

Things are on the move.

Ernakulam’s old boat jetty has disappeared in favour of a brand new (unfinished) concrete building, in which people actually queue up for their tickets. I mean long lines, well behaved and all. Last time I’d bought tickets here, it was all scruf and hurry.

It’s in little things like these that you feel the undertow of change.

Non smoking signs are another example. They have appeared in most public places and I haven’t seen a lot of people smoke either.

But most of all, Fort Cochin has changed. From a quiet network of small alleys, lined with local shops and traders, and a couple of hotels on the island, it has become a fullfledged mainstream tourist attraction.

Hotels, some very posh, and homestays have sprung up in the north west and center part of the island. Along with numerous cafes, restaurants and curios, souvenir, craft and antique shops. Some of which are really really nice. Not only in what they have to offer, but how they offer it and in what surroundings.

Many old buildings have been restored with a lot of taste, and the decoration and welcome is spotless.

We found an art center in the Mattancherry area located in the courtyard of a former spice trader. Designers and painters share the space displaying what today’s indian design is about. Amazing.

We didn’t spend enough time here to really appreciate it, but Kochi has really a lot to offer.

Overall, we haven’t meet many backpackers, eventhough the place caters nicely for them. This might be that we don’t share the same space and time.

Travellibg with children alters the way you choose where to stay, how to travel and what to eat.

Could it be that the tourism in India has broadened so much that backpackers are just one kind amongst all the others? Maybe. Or it might be a case of my romantic/nostalgic perception of the world, and backpackers aren’t what they use to be…

…or have changed. Drastically. The once quiet and relaxed (almost dead) Fort Cochin has changed into a suburban Kathmandu. Curio shops, bazaars, rooftop restaurants, little hotels and homestays, western music and tourists everywhere.

As if Fort Cochin had become a package tour destination. This is by far the most dramatic change we’ve witnessed so far (but there is still no beer readily available).

Let’s not juge to hastily. Taking time to settle in.

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